HERR VOS UND SEINE LUFTSCHLÖSSER
Der Luxuszug-Betreiber Rovos Rail in Südafrika
geht jetzt mit historischen Flugzeugen auch stilvoll
in die Luft. Von Andreas Spaeth.
Der Mann schien alles erreicht zu haben. Wohlhabend
geworden im Handel mit Auto-Ersatzteilen hatte sich
Rohan Vos 1989 einen Traum erfüllt und eine eigene
Bahngesellschaft mit historischen Luxuszügen
gegründet. Rovos Rail ist in den 15 Jahren ihres
Bestehens zum Symbol für die stilvolle und nostalgische
Reise über die Schienenstränge des südlichen
Afrika geworden. Drei Züge aus den 1920er und
1930er Jahren schaukeln wohlhabende Passagiere aus
aller Welt vom firmeneigenen Bahnhof in Pretoria nach
Kapstadt, Durban, über die Garden Route oder
zum Krüger Park - streckenweise gezogen von einer
der Rovos-Dampfloks aus den 1930er Jahren, zwei davon
1938 bei Borsig in Berlin gebaut. Auch die Victoria
Fälle gehörten lange Zeit zu den festen
Bestandteilen des Fahrplans, bis schwere Überflutungen
und die unsichere Lage in Zimbabwe dieser beliebten
Tour vor gut vier Jahren ein Ende bereiteten. Der
nimmermüde Perfektionist Rohan Vos sann auf eine
Alternative und entschloß sich, zwischen Pietersburg
und Afrikas größten Wasserfällen in
die Luft zu gehen. Doch die Gründung von Rovos
Air als logische Ergänzung der edlen Zugreise
sollte den Patriarchen viele schlaflose Nächte
und vor allem Unsummen an Geld kosten. Denn ein Rohan
Vos mietet nicht einfach irgendein historisches Flugzeug,
von denen es in Südafrika viele gibt, und nimmt
den Betrieb auf, sondern er muß etwas eigenes
und ganz besonderes haben. Der stolze und manchmal
dickköpfige Bahnbetreiber lehnte alle Kooperations-Angebote
von örtlichen Flugexperten ab und stürzte
sich als Laie in das Abenteuer Luftfahrt, von dem
er selbst heute als "Alptraum" spricht und
sagt: "Das würde ich nie wieder tun".
Aber ein Rohan Vos gibt nicht auf, und so sind heute
an Südafrikas Himmel zwei Flugzeuge unterwegs,
die auf der Welt ihresgleichen suchen. Die beiden
Convair 440 Metropolitan von 1954 mit ihren mächtigen
Kolbenmotoren und dem eleganten dunkelgrün-beigen
Äußeren sind eine Augenweide für jeden
Luftfahrt-Nostalgiker. In den 1950er und 1960er Jahren
flog dieses Kurz- und Mittelstreckenflugzeug auch
bei der Lufthansa, SAS und American Airlines setzten
es noch in den 1970er und frühen 1980er Jahren
als Inselhüpfer auf Ostseediensten bzw. in der
Karibik ein. Kein Passagier dürfte aber an Bord
der damaligen Linienflüge derart verwöhnt
worden sein wie heute die Gäste von Rovos Air.
Schon die im Flugzeugbau einmalige und zeitlos elegante
Flügeltür sorgt beim Einsteigen für
besonderes Flair, bereits die Stufen der ausfahrbaren
Fluggasttreppe sind mit dickem Teppich ausgelegt.
Das durchaus beabsichtigte Gefühl vom fliegenden
Salonwagen setzt sich im Inneren der Kabine fort -
hier reicht der Teppich vom Boden bis auf Kniehöhe
an den Wänden, 44 üppige Sessel aus dunkelgrünem
Leder verströmem Clubatmosphäre und sogar
die hölzerne Toilette dürfte zu den schönsten
stillen Örtchen in der Luft gehören. Aus
den großen, viereckigen Kabinenfenstern fällt
der Blick auf die Weiten Afrikas, während die
Flugbegleiterinnen zum erlesenen Essen hervorragende
Weine aus Kristallgläsern servieren - so wie
es die Gäste von Rovos Rail gewohnt sind, Rovos
Air fügt sich nahtlos ins Luxus-Portfolio ein.
Während die Passagiere nach dem Lunch vom sonoren
Brummen der Propeller in den weit nach hinten gestellten
Rückenlehnen ihrer Sitze sanft in ein Nickerchen
gewiegt werden müssen die drei Männer im
Cockpit hart arbeiten.
"Die Convair zu fliegen ist eine sehr körperliche
Erfahrung", sagt Flugkapitän André
Balt, "wir haben hier keine Hydraulik".
Zu kämpfen haben die Piloten vor allem mit der
begrenzten Reichweite und Zuladung ihres Schmuckstücks
bei Abflügen von Livingstone auf der sambischen
Seite der Victoria Fälle. Bei größerer
Hitze, und die ist hier die Regel, und mehr als 19
Passagieren kann die Convair nicht vollgetankt starten
und muß auf dem zweistündigen Weg ins südafrikanische
Pietersburg oft in Botswana nachtanken. Und auch die
beiden jeweils 3.000 Pferdestärken leistenden
Pratt & Whitney-Kolbenmotoren machen immer mal
wieder Kummer wenn etwa durch ein Leck größere
Mengen Öl austreten, "aber das war damals
beim Fliegen normal", beruhigt Captain Balt .
Mit ihrer begrenzten Leistung und als Unikate sind
die beiden Metropolitans eigentlich die falschen Flugzeuge
für diesen Betrieb, das wissen sowohl die Piloten
als auch Rohan Vos. Doch nachdem er eine lange Leidensgeschichte
mit seinen beiden ursprünglich für die US-Luftwaffe
gebauten, dann eingemotteten und später in Bolivien
eingesetzten Luftschlössern überstanden
hat gibt er nun nicht einfach auf. "Ich mußte
einige meiner früher 13 Firmen verkaufen um für
die Kosten aufzukommen", gibt Rohan Vos unumwunden
zu. Bis die Veteranen, zu denen auch noch eine DC-3
gehört, nach vielfältigen Modikationen und
Verzögerungen endlich von den Behörden für
den zivilen Passagierverkehr in Südafrika zugelassen
wurden hatte Vos im laufenden Betrieb schon mehrere
Millionen Euro verloren und gleichzeitig eine ähnlich
hohe Summe pro Flugzeug in die Instandsetzung investiert.
Zwischenzeitlich versuchte der eigensinnige Unternehmer
bereits, die beiden Flugzeuge zu verkaufen, aber ohne
Erfolg. Zur Zeit fliegen die Convairs insgesamt gerade
etwa 30 Stunden im Monat - viel zu wenig um zumindest
einen Teil ihrer Kosten wieder hereinzuholen. Neben
den nur im Paket buchbaren Zu- und Abbringerflügen
zwischen Zug und Victoria Fällen steht die historische
Edel-Flotte auch für Rundflüge und fliegende
Dinner-Parties im Raum Johannesburg sowie für
Charter-Einsätze in ganzen südlichen Afrika
zur Verfügung. Viel zu wenig hat Rovos Air seine
Schmuckstücke bisher dort gezeigt, wo sie auf
die meisten Bewunderer und offene Geldbörsen
stoßen würden - auf Luftfahrtschauen. Aber
auch den Zugreisenden ist es nicht egal, mit was sie
fliegen. "Anfangs mußten wir ersatzweise
einen Fokker-F28-Jet einsetzen", erinnert sich
Rohan Vos und stöhnt: "Da wollten viele
Kunden ihr Geld zurück, weil sie angeblich extra
aus Japan wegen der Convairs angereist waren".
Informationen unter www.rovos.com
WORLD-RENOWNED ROVOS RAIL TRANSPORTS PASSENGERS
IN HIGH EDWARDIAN STYLE ABOARD A SERIES OF METICULOUSLY
RESTORED COACHES FROM THE 1920'S AND 30'S DESIGNED
TO EVOKE ALL THE GLAMOUR AND ELEGANCE OF PRE-WAR RAIL
TRAVEL
Bridget Hilton-Barber travelled from Pretoria to Victoria
Falls.
Sunday Independent Newspaper 14 Nov 2004 www.sundayindependent.co.za
"Pardon me boy, is that the chap that chewed
your new shoes?" Yes, yes, I know those aren't
the right lyrics, but we've been quaffing champagne
since eight in the morning and all childish outbreaks
of song must surely be forgiven when you're standing
on the platform ready to board "the world's most
luxurious train".
Rovos Rail departs from their headquarters in Capital
Park, Pretoria, a once derelict locomotive yard that
is now a gracious colonial-style railway station.
A duet is playing light classical music, and like
us, most of the assembled guests, have moved swiftly
from coffee to champagne, and have a faraway look
in their eyes, as if they're fondly recalling their
first reading of The Railway Children.
The minute we step into our compartment - or "suite"
as it's called in Rovos-speak - I fall in love with
all 11 magohany-pannelled square metres of it. There's
a huge double bed, a small lounge area with a table
concealing the minibar and "tea drawer",
a built-in cupboard, and en suite bathroom. There
is underfloor heating and airconditioning, there are
heated towel racks, white fluffy dressing gowns, even
a pair of plastic goggles (very Biggles) for looking
out the window without fear of nasty little specks
of dust getting in your eyes. There are no televisions
or radios aboard Rovos, and cellphones are allowed
only in the suites, but then who on earth wants to
ruin an Edwardian rail fantasy with polyphonic ringtones?
With a loud and cheery blast of the hooter, the train
shudders and pulls out of the station. Rovos started
out as a steam-hauled train, but these days diesel
and electric locomotives are also used, mainly as
a result of the decrease of suitable water and coal
facilities along the railway network. All departures
and arrivals in Pretoria however, are done by steam
loco, and the atmosphere is delightful.
So delightful in fact, that we attack the bottle of
champagne in the mini-bar and flop onto the bed to
watch the passing show. From Pretoria the train travel
eastwards towards Witbank, and offers a gritty and
unsanitised insight into the peri-urban edges of the
capital. We go past factories, squatter camps, townships
and suburbs, until finally it all thins out into Highveld
bush and a brass gong announces the start of lunch.
We stagger off to the dining car, a formal carriage
dating back to 1911 that is an opulent affair with
fluted teak pillars and arches, mahogany tables, fresh
flowers, special Rovos china and silverware.The scenery
outside is a bit of a contrast - we are passing through
Witbank, which is hardly a picturesque spot with its
belching collieries and factories, but nevertheless
has a special significance for Anglophiles because
it was here that a young Winston Churchill, an escaping
British prisoner-of-war, jumped onto a freight train
and made good his escape to then Lourenço Marques.
The British couple at the next table beam intently
out the window. From Witbank, the train chuffs on
to Middleburg, then Machadadorp and starts descending
rapidly down the escarpment, passing through the postcard
pretty surrounds of Waterval Boven and Onder. Unfortunately
we miss this part since we have been rendered utterly
helpless by lunch and wine and have fallen asleep
purring.
By sunset we've reached the Lowveld and the vegetation
has changed dramatically. We head for the rear of
the train to the Observation Car, which sports a mahogany
bar, and colonial style furnishings, as well as an
open-air observation platform. Outside there are subtropical
plantations, and gentle stretches of bush. The air
is hot and heady and we've completely
forgotten about things like deadlines, emails and
traffic lights.
Cheerful chatter fills the Observation Car. Passengers,
now merry and drinking gin, look splendid in formal
attire, de rigueur for dinners aboard Rovos Rail.
Along with emails and traffic lights, my husband has
also forgotten his tie, but conveniently, there is
a small selection on sale in Observation Car, together
with other gifts like ostrich leather wallets, gold
cufflinks, pens, hip flasks and limited edition hand-made
teddy bears. He selects a bold tie with a charging
elephant on the front despite my concerns that it
may frighten the other diners.
After traversing the Crocodile River Valley outside
of Nelspruit, the train travels eastwards towards
Kaapmuiden and chugs cheek by jowl along the boundary
of the Kruger Park, before continuing northwards toward
Komatipoort and the Lebombo mountains. By this time
we are tucking into our dinner.
The food aboard Rovos is excellent, the wine list
discerning, the service attentive. Rovos staff are
the kind of people who can serve peas while going
through a darkened tunnel without a single one rolling
off the plate. They make you feel special and wanted
and there is certainly no rush around here although
most guests head to bed early, soothed by the proverbial
clickety- clack and the sheer romance of it all. The
average speed aboard Rovos is about 60kms per hour,
and over bad sections, the driver may reduce speed
to as little as 20kms per hour. "A sleeping tablet
or a wee bit more of your favourite tipple might be
appropriate" according to our information pack,
"and earplugs are also provided, not only for
the train mind you".
The next morning we decide to skip the "off train
excursion" (a game drive in the exclusive Kapama
Game Reserve followed by a bush brunch) and opt instead
to sleep late. We wake up to an empty train, glorious
distant mountain views and the hot buzz of cicadas.
This is heaven. We lie around, read books, take a
walk through the bush, nibble on sandwiches. We are
having a much, much nicer time than the first journalist
who undertook a Rovos adventure way back in 1989.
His name was Brian O'Hanlon, and according to a brochure,
"His bed broke during the afternoon snooze, his
early evening shower scalded his back and crossed
toilet cistern pipes gave him a 'hot flush'. A meander
through the train in the small hours of the morning
found him wrapped in a blanket and propped up in the
dining car alternately dozing and reading Jock of
the Bushveld." At lunchtime, the others return
and the train heads off towards Hoedspruit and once
again climbs the escarpment as spectacular scenery
slips past - placid dams, deep gorges and ancient
valleys carved from high cliffs. We pass the cycads
near Modjadji, we pass the subtropical farms around
Tzaneen, we pass each more champagne.
By sunset on the second evening, everyone has warmed
up another notch and we start swapping tall tales
of adventure and showing off our trainspotting knowledge.
The gracious clink of glasses and cutlery is punctuated
by laughter and the occasional whoop and shriek of
delight. After a languid breakfast the next morning
we pull slowly into Polokwane Station, and are whisked
off to the airport, and from there, flown to Livingstone
in Zambia aboard one of Rovos Air's classic historic
planes. This one, a Convair 440, was brought from
Bolivia and flown over the Atlantic for restoration
in South Africa. It's all pale leather seats and legroom,
a wonderful reminder of the days when flying didn't
mean wishing you were a bonzai.
The plane cruises at around 12 000 feet, so you can
see the scenery below, in this case vast scrubby stretches
of Botswana scoured by ancient elephant tracks. Just
before we land in Livingstone, the plane banks over
the Victoria Falls, and we all gasp at the sight of
Mosi oa Tunya, the Smoke that Thunders, the single
biggest curtain of falling water in the world.
The plane touches down, the doors open and the air
is thick with the promise of heady adventure, but
for a moment I wish that I could skip it all and just
get straight back onto Rovos Rail again.
WITH THE ‘PRIDE OF AFRICA’ TO
DAR ES SALAAM - WILLIBALD SONTAG DOES THE HONOURS
Railway Africa Issue 6/2003
A sprightly 82 Willibald Sontag saw service in the
German navy, later in the East German state railway.
In 1945 he was sentenced by a Soviet military tribunal
to 25 years imprisonment on trumped-up charges. He
was freed in 1956 and commenced his ' second life
' as a technical information officer. After retirement
in 1987 he freelanced for DBB and the trade press.
He is a member of the VDI (Veteran Deutscher Ingenieure)
and for many years was treasurer and head of the technical
history section of the mid-Rhine division. Having
ridden the "Trans-Canadian", the Australian
"Indian-Pacific" and "Ghan", expectations
ran high " when booking Rovos Rail's top train
for a journey which turned out to be second to none.
Rhodes's bold idea, of a Cape to Cairo railway, has
today progressed as far north as Dar es Salaam thanks
to rail and business pioneers quite apart from political
forces. The title "An Authentic African Adventure"
of some 5 OOO km really is appropriate for an unusual
rail journey; one not easy to come by (nor to afford!),
but worthwhile venturing.
How did this happen to me, an octogenarian? From boyhood
there was this fascination with railways with their
thundering steamers, glossy expresses and worldwide
connections.Then: enter Africa, that mysterious continent
and Cecil Rhodes's vision of Cape-to-Cairo.That this
is at all possible today is thanks to the committed
rail-roader, Rohan Vos, who, once a year manages to
operate a very special train from the Cape to Dar
es Salaam and back.
So, on June 27 2003, the polished-up old time train
was waiting at Cape Town for its 30 passengers, welcomed
and introduced by Rohan Vos himself and the train
crew. Red carpet, classic string music and drinks,
a touching ceremony repeated at intermediate stops
during the journey. The train consist: a total of
15 carriages: observation car, nine sleepers, lounge,
diner, kitchen and staff car, one generator van.
With electric traction up front, the "Pride of
Africa" began its 13-day journey at 11am. My
comfortable home was in coach No 5 with three deluxe
suites of 11m2, each with its own lounge area and
bathroom. My "neighbours" were an American
in the diplomatic service and, at the far end of the
coach the "train historian", Nicholas Schofield,
from South Africa - all in all a "travelling
neighbourhood". Soon after having left the western
Cape and having settled in their rooms, the passengers
(South African, British, New Zealand, Swiss, Danish,
American, Argentinean, Austrian, and German) showed
up in the diner for their first experience of Rovos
Rail's culinary culture.
A stop at Matjiesfontein afforded an opportunity for
a drink in the historic Lord Milner Hotel and a short
visit to Marie Rawdon's museum. Proceeding via Beaufort
West and De Aar the "Pride of Africa" arrived
at its next stopover - Kimberley; famous for its bustling
diamond industry of the 1880s. After lunch in the
historic Kimberley club which still radiates the spirit
of those turbulent years with the names of Rhodes,
Churchill, Jameson, King George and the Queen, we
c rode on an authentically restored tram car to the
"Big Hole".
Later we continued into the Transvaal where the next
highlight was the "Pride's" arrival at Capital
Park, just north of Pretoria, the home base of Rovos
Rail. Expertly refurbished, it presents an inviting
station building, spacious loco and wagon sheds, a
model railway, a rail memorabilia museum and also
an authentic signal box.
Into the night
An 1893 Class 6 ("Tiffany"), to the delight
of the steam lovers amongst us, was to haul the "Pride
of Africa" into nightfall! Descending from the
Highveld onto the Lowveld, electric units had again
taken over, speeding through Mpumalanga along the
Kruger National Park boundary towards Hoedspruit.
Here passengers disembarked for an overnight stay
at the luxurious private Kapama Lodge and game reserve.
At nightfall a game viewing drive in open safari type
vehicles with an expert scout offered exciting encounters
with lion, elephant, giraffe and other wild animals.
A torch-lit barbecue dinner around a campfire in the
boma marked the end of an eventful day. After a comfortable
night's rest the safari vehicles once more took passengers
on tours through the nearby Endangered Species Centre,
home to cheetah, wild dog, rhino, hippo, marabou and
others. Back at Hoedspruit, the train crew had used
the layover to service bars and suites and during
the night the "Pride of Africa" proceeded
across the Tropic of Capricorn and joined the Pretoria
- Musina mainline. Once again we were traversing historic
sites of the Anglo-Boer war (1899- 1902), involving
Kruger, Rhodes, Churchill, Kitchener, but also lesser
ones, like "Breaker Morant". This young
Australian lieutenant was infamously involved in the
murder of a German missionary and unarmed Boers. Having
seen the Australian version in the early 80s, this
unexpected encounter with dramatic history touched
me.
In the early morning the train stopped at Musina,
South African border station, and, after crossing
the Beit Bridge we entered Zimbabwe. The NRZ diesel
electrics continued at 50km/h into Matabeleland. Later
they slowed to 40 and then 25km/h due to inferior
perway. This is not the only difficulty NRZ is facing.
Low availability of motive power is also a major problem.
In the mid-train saloon, historian Nicholas delivered
the first of his lectures on "Cecil J Rhodes
- Tycoon and Visionary". A portrait was painted
of that controversial character, who was an invisible
companion for most of the journey. Later, the audience
was treated to a stimulating lecture on "Zambia
and Zimbabwe".
Entering Bulawayo, capital of Matabeleland and the
rail hub of Zimbabwe, we saw the last stronghold of
those mighty Beyer- Garratts, which have survived
on shunting duties. The night run to Vic Falls was
uneventful, passing through the Hwange National Park
and the extensive coalfields.
"The Smoke that Thunders"
Just before noon we came to a stop at Victoria Falls
station. It has seen so many trains in the last
100 years or so, some of them carrying famous personalities
to this historic place which still has a touch of
colonial empire and the Victorian era. Many of these
memories are enshrined in the renowned Victoria
Falls Hotel, conveniently situated just opposite
the platform.
I was eagerly looking forward to the sightseeing
and to the variety of activities presented at Vic
Falls. Even although it was my third visit the place
had lost nothing of its fascination: with a walk
along the 1,7krn wide falls, thundering down 100m.
David Livingstone was probably the first white man
to behold that spectacular show in 1855. The spirit
of this missionary explorer is detectable everywhere.
Today the Falls can be explored by chopper, canoeing,
wild water, rafting and even bungee jumping. Another
highlight impressed this German traveller: the sunset
cruise on the Zambezi! On board guests were entertained
and treated to snacks and drinks (the "sundowner"
a speciality). We spotted crocodile, hippo and elephant.
African dancers followed by a sumptuous candle-lit
dinner in the Stanley Room of the hotel ended an
eventful day.
Following a comfortable night's rest in the old-fashioned
but stylish hotel (by the way, the only night on
this tour under mosquito net) I took a last stroll
to the Falls park and local market before boarding
the "Pride of Africa" for the afternoon
departure to Zambia.
Special event
A few minutes later - the train stopped for some
15 minutes on the Vic Falls Bridge, a single-span
arched steel structure, completed in 1905 bridging
the 200m wide gorge 120m above water level connecting
Zimbabwe and Zambia.
On the bridge, the guests could detrain while a
sight for eyes and cameras alike was the "Pride
of Africa" poised above the raging waters.
(Ten years before I had had the opportunity of crawling
through the girders guided by a chief engineer of
NRZ!) Eventually, we started into Zambia, stopping
at Livingstone, once the capital of the former Northern
Rhodesia.
Lusaka, some 480km north, is now the capital. Again,
as at Vic Falls, border formalities were no problem
thanks to established relations with the border
staff. As to speed, 25km/h was the average on this
section of the former colonial railway to the copperbelt.
The main line is now under rehabilitation as evidenced
by a number of track maintenance machines. While
crossing the Kafue River the next day, the train
historian gave another lecture on the "Cape-
to-Cairo Railway - from history to modern travel".
The train stopped for about half an hour at Lusaka
which is the headquarters of the now fully dieselised
Zambia Railway. The afternoon saw travellers in
the saloon for another history lecture on "David
Livingstone - an heroic failure". Again, Nicholas
led his audience through the life and tragic fate
of that outstanding man.
TAZARA at last!
Kapiri Mposhi, the southern terminus of the 1800km
TAZARA Railway was eventually reached. This route
was built by Chinese in 1970-75 under the motto
"Uhuru" - (Freedom) Railway; to give land-locked
Zambia direct access to the sea for its copper exports.
Traction for our train was now by TAZARA diesels,
either Chinese built or a 3 000 Krupp diesel electric.
Running through the night the "Pride of Africa"
maintained an average speed of 40km/h. Soon after
06hOO passengers had to rise for breakfast at Kanona
station and an early start in minibuses was made
into the bush. This was really tough going! After
half an hour's drive through the wilderness the
trail ended near the Kundalila Waterfall (65m high),
on the Kaombe River.
To get a close look at the isolated site, we had
to negotiate a rough path through barren stony terrain.
We were amply rewarded by a Rovos style "brunch"
in the open veld! Imagine, if you can, a gastronomical
hot and cold buffet with tables fully set with linen,
china, silver cutlery and crystal glasses together
with a wide selection of well chilled beverages!
All in all, a feeling of unreality - or should I
really say "Out of Africa"?
Heading east to northeast, the "Pride of Africa"
began traversing another very scenic landscape through
the Great Rift Valley, where passengers were treated
to breathtaking views. Our historian's lecture was
now about the controversy around the "Discovery
of the Nile" and, in the afternoon, a general
overview of central and east Africa.
Tanzania - and journey's end
After the border crossing into Tanzania at Tunduma,
we were enthralled by the scenery and by the location
of the line on steep slopes with tunnels and bridges.
Small wonder that the observation platform was again
crowded with guest's whirring cameras! A late stop
was made at Mbeya with its oversized modern Chinese-style
station building. Here, too, Rohan Vos could be
seen in his dual role: if not presiding at dinner
in his black-tie, Vos could be seen creeping under
carriages for closer inspection! After another overnight
stop at Mazamba, our train reached Makambako. Passengers
assembled for Nicholas's last lecture on "Zanzibar,
Bagamoyo and the African Slave Trade". Soon
afterwards the "Pride of Africa" passed
Kidatu, the junction of the 1067mm TAZARA line with
the southern end of the East African 1 OOO mm gauge
system. A trans-shipment facility has been built
here and is operated by Trans Africa Railways.
Small wonder that the last evening on board our
luxury train turned into a lively and exciting one!
Who could resist the Rovos team's invitation to
the observation car? That night the vital centre
of the "Pride of Africa" shifted to the
end of the train, almost representing the "end
of the line". In the lounge, as well as on
the open platform of the observation car, party
guests toasted one another (and some of them held
their glasses up to the Southern Cross high above
...). Eventually the train came to a final halt
at the crowded platform of the huge TAZARA station
in Dar es Salaam. We were e welcomed by station
staff, onlookers, travel agents and a uniformed
brass band playing marches! The atmosphere was electric
as everyone detrained from what had been a luxury
"moving home" for two weeks.
SOUTH AFRICA – RIDING THE RAILS FOR
GOLF AND GAME’
by Stuart and Lois Scheyer. Courtesy of ‘ The
Longboat Traveller “ 17 June 2004
Eight days and nights on a train in South Africa -
you have to love it or hate it - and love it we did.
Of course, this was no ordinary trip or train. It
was the Golf Safari on Rovos Rail, one of the most
elegant railroads in the world. Rohan Vos, started
rebuilding old railroad cars and locomotives as a
hobby; soon his hobby turned into a full-fledged business
based in Pretoria, with some 100 trips a year on the
southern half of the African continent.
The three Golf Safaris a year are recent additions
to the usual schedule that is built around game drives,
sightseeing and leisure travel, but those features
are also included in the golf trips. The full itinerary
is a kaleidoscope of golf at five excellent courses,
at least three game drives and sightseeing and shopping
trips for everyone. Additional events are available
to non-golfers. All of this is wrapped in a beautiful
package of service that befits a five-star hotel.
In fact, the first actual stop on our trip was at
a genuine five-star hotel: Cape Grace in Cape Town,
South Africa.
But first, a little background on the trip. If you
are one of our relatives or dwindling number of friends
who are required to read our columns and follow our
travels, you probably know that we enjoy fast and
frequent trips. We recently wrote about five days
in Costa Rica and eight days in China (that one was
a little fast, even for us). So when we first heard
of the golf trip on Rovos, it had many positives and
one big negative: the length of the trip. With a base
of eight nights on the train and three nights on airplanes,
in addition to a night in Pretoria before leaving,
we debated for a year. Nevertheless, the chance to
see a major new country and big game and be on a train
and play golf became too irresistible. We then decided
that we could not miss Cape Town and added an opening
night in that great city.
So, we flew non-stop overnight to London and left
the same night on a flight to Cape Town, arriving
in the early morning. Cape Grace Hotel was (appropriately)
quite gracious and had a room ready for us at 9:00
a. m. With only a little over twenty-four hours scheduled
in Cape Town, we left immediately, after a welcome
shower, for a tour of this unique city that straddles
the Atlantic and Indian oceans. All of the accolades
about the setting and surroundings are true. The second
night we stayed at Illyria House in Pretoria, which
was enthusiastically recommended by the Rovos staff,
and it certainly is the Taj Mahal of B&B's, with
commensurate prices.
Now, let's get to the real reason for the trip: golf
and game while riding the rails. The trip was structured
in a manner similar to a cruise with travel at night
and a new destination each morning. We left on Saturday
morning from Rovos Rail's private station in Pretoria,
which is the formal capital of South Africa. Actually,
most government business is in Johannesburg and Cape
Town. With Champagne and canapés for nourishment,
we met our staff and 37 other guests and experienced
the first of what was to be many examples of the friendly
efficiency of the staff. Golf bags vanished into a
holding area, suitcases were placed in suites and
explanations abounded. With a blast of steam and the
nostalgic shout of the train whistle, we were off.
At this point, it is appropriate to describe the accommodations
that were to be our home for fourteen hours a day
for over a week. For obvious reasons, a train is not
too wide. But any comparison to the old "bedrooms"
or "roomettes" is erroneous, because there
were only two "Royal Suites" in our admittedly
short European style railroad car. We had a permanent
queen bed in one end of the room and a desk, refrigerator
and armchairs in the other end, with moderate closet
and storage space. For bathroom lovers, and count
me as one, there was a full shower stall, old-fashioned
claw foot bathtub and ample room for the toilet and
sink. This most important room on board was first
class.
We settled in for a very welcome respite by getting
traveling on the first day and having a chance to
get acquainted with fellow passengers from Wales,
Australia, Great Britain, Sweden, Switzerland and
a large group from Germany. Although we were the only
Americans, English was the universal language. We
awoke on Sunday to find a bus next to our train loaded
with our golf clubs and we were off on a brief ride
to Leopard Creek Country Club…certainly one
of the finest courses that we have enjoyed in the
world. Golf was perfectly spaced: Royal Swazi on Monday,
Beachwood at Durban on Wednesday, Champagne Sports
Resort on Thursday and Lost City at Sun City on Saturday.
Champagne Resort, only five years old, might be the
best course that we have ever had the pleasure to
play. Logistics were superb and planning excellent.
The bus preceded us everywhere and we arrived at each
course with our names on carts and caddies. As an
added attraction, giraffes, monkeys and crocodiles
joined us as we played… certainly a justifiable
cause to claim a "mulligan." Golf was only
one facet of the experience. Afternoons and off days
were filled with sightseeing and game drives. We received
a moderate education on the habits of each animal
and watched their constant vigil for avoiding more
voracious species: "you snooze, you lose!"
It is difficult to describe the excitement that comes
from close proximity to such wild animals, all from
the safety of your open sided vehicle…safe as
long as you stay inside the profile. A lovely lake
trip to search for crocodiles and hippos filled one
early evening.
All of the above was enhanced by some of the most
outstanding service and facilities that we have ever
experienced. In addition to sleeping cars with two
or three suites each, we had an observation car, lounge
car, dining car and full kitchen car. Each had been
grandly restored to their original splendor. Room
service was available 24/7. We were treated to superb
breakfasts and dinners on the train with a wide variety
of interesting, but not foolish, choices. The South
African wines, which were recently extolled in the
International Herald Tribune, were superb. Suites
were attended to every time we left… and all
of this was presented by a staff that was genuinely
friendly and professional.
As we spent so much time with the South African staff
and international travel partners, we gained a greater
prospective on the social and political situations
in the many countries of the southern African continent.
Hope was evident throughout the country of South Africa
and we were considerably impressed with the pride
of most citizens. When we asked a cab driver about
crime in Johannesburg, he answered, "There might
be some, but I will never talk against my country."
The change from apartheid to democracy has been remarkably
peaceful, but problems abound, with AIDS, unemployment
and tribal rivalry presenting major challenges. Most
important, hope was the watchword and the marvelous
physical assets of this country make it an excellent
vacation destination.
In summary, the longest trip that we have taken in
many years was also one of the best. A Golf Safari
or any other travel offered by Rovos Rail comes very
highly recommended. They can be reached on their excellent
Internet site at www.rovos.com or by E-mail at nicole@rovos.co.za.
Stuart and Lois Scheyer are in their early seventies
and are residents of Longboat Key. They each log over
100,000 air miles a year. They will be pleased to
answer any travel questions and can be reached by
E-mail at EnergeticTravel@aol.com
DIARY OF A SAFARI JOURNEY
By Godfrey King, www.incentiveworld.com Magazine,
Vol 4 No 1
Running specialist train journeys throughout Southern
Africa must be a logistical nightmare. For example,
rail networks are not consistently maintained to acceptable
standards which means that operators like Rovos Rail
have to take exceptional care in seeing that the excursions
they offer are of a high and safe standard. This they
do. But, above all else, my experience is that they
offer a standard of service that is simply unequalled
in the sub-continent. And, frankly, this is what counts
most. Rovos Rail's Pretoria to Durban run is now into
its third season and combines a well-paced journey
plus two interesting and very different game drives.
The route from Pretoria to Durban goes via Komatipoort
in Mpumalanga and also the eastern side of Swaziland.
incentiveworld.com was invited to undertake the return
journey from Durban to Pretoria and what follows is
a train diary of the trip.
MONDAY
09h00: Arrival at Durban station.
Directions to Rovos Rail well signposted. Red carpet
is out, and the reception by Rovos staff is warm and
welcoming, plus glass of champagne. Personally escorted
to compartment onboard The Pride of Africa.
09h45: Guests gather on the platform
to be addressed by the train manager, Pieter Peyper,
who explains what is going to happen and also gives
some "travelling rules" - for example, keep
windows up and blinds closed at stations to avoid
any unnecessary "shopping" by outsiders.
(A sad commentary on state of affairs in South Africa,
but nevertheless true).
10h00: The Pride of Africa literally
glides out of Durban station on a trip north where
the rails have not seen regular, long-distance trains
for decades. The view, unfortunately, until we reach
Stanger, is somewhat industrial and full of squatter
settlements.
11h00: Drinks in the observation
car at the rear of the train, watching the tracks
fall away. More free-flowing champagne.
13h00: Lunch. Smoked chicken salad,
roast fillet with maitre dé butter, and fruit
and mascarpone bombe. An excellent meal with very
good service.
15h00: Not very exciting scenery
as train passes through extensive blue gum plantations.
As eventide falls, there is the first sign of the
Lebombo mountains and the scenery turns into typical
African bush.
20h00: Dinner. Crayfish strudel,
butternut and mango soup, and a really superb duck
confit with sauté potatoes. A meal to die for.
After dinner The Pride of Africa crosses the border
into Swaziland at Golela. The Kingdom of Swaziland
has the shortest railway system of any country in
Southern Africa, except Lesotho, which has only a
few kilometres of track. This tiny nation is bordered
on three sides by South Africa and to the east by
Mozambique, where the border is formed by the rugged
Lebombo mountains.
20h30: Time to go to bed with the
clack-clack of the rails and the train rocking into
the night.
TUESDAY
05h00: Since midnight the train has
been stationed at Mpaka Siding, Mkhaya. Wake-up call
for an early game drive in the Mkhaya Game Reserve.
05h15: Tea, coffee, juices, fruit
and pastries are served in the dining car.
06h00: Off on the game drive to see
elephants (particularly a three-month-old baby elephant),
black and white rhino, giraffe, nyala, sable, impala
and much more. Mkhaya is a privately-owned park and
Swaziland's refuge for endangered species. The game
drives are claimed to be soul-enriching experiences.
08h00: A short bathroom break at
the reserve's Stone Lodge Camp, where tea, coffee
and muffins are served under a tree-shaded canopy.
09h30: Arrival back at the train
- and after more champagne! - the train departs for
Komatipoort in Mpumalanga, South Africa.
11h00: Back in South Africa and brunch
is served in the dining car. The scenery changes from
bush to sugar cane.
15h15: Arrive Malelane for game drive
in the Kruger Park followed by an off-train bush dinner
in a boma at the Malelane Sun. Bush drive unspectacular
but this is the nature of a game park. Sightings of
the big cats cannot be made to order. Unfortunately
this did not happen, but …
18h00:
The dinner in the boma at the Malelane Sun was, complete
with crackling log fire, a superb success. The menu
included ostrich sausages, kudu kebabs, and a guinea
fowl curry. All exceptionally tasty. Then it was off
to rejoin the train and … wait for it …
more champagne on arrival!
20h00: The train departed for the
overnight journey to Waterval Onder.
WEDNESDAY
07h00: Breakfast is served as the
train begins to ascend from Waterval Onder and climbs
a most attractive escarpment route up to Belfast.
A pity that the very scenic route along the Crocodile
River is missed overnight.
12h30: Lunch is served as the train
departs Witbank and heads for Rayton, where a steam
engine hauls the train into Pretoria. The final Rovos
touch!
15h00: We arrive at Rovos Rail's
Capital Park Station in Pretoria. The trip is over.
All that is left are the memories that have been created.
AN AMERICAN ON ROVOS RAIL
By Margaret Shakespeare, incentiveworld.com Magazine,
Vol 4 No 1
New York writer Margaret Shakespeare has travelled
throughout the world on assignment and often in Southern
Africa. Her articles have been published in the New
York Times, Forbes FYI, Brides, Country Living, Opera
News and Wildlife Conservation, where she is a regular
contributor, among many others. Her interests and
experience are eclectic - from wine and food pairing
to lions in the Okavango Delta to baseball and contemporary
brass chamber music. She is at work on a South African
food and wine book for the American audience. Here
she reports on a Rovos Rail Durban to Pretoria trip.
During the grim old days of apartheid, when most of
the world cordoned off South Africa with economic
sanctions and travel restrictions, certain tidings
persistently leaked out. We heard about the improving
quality of wines, that nowhere could top Kruger, long
the crown jewel of South Africa National Parks, for
Big Five game viewing and that the Blue Train remained
the most luxurious rail trip in the world.
But a leaked report isn't necessarily truth-bearing.
During the past decade I have been privileged to explore
the "new" South Africa - to taste, see,
experience, judge for myself - and pass along leisure
and lifestyle recommendations to my readers in the
US (sometimes a persnickety lot, with unyielding standards
and lots of visa stamps in their double-size passports).
Wines: yes, from big companies such as a revamped
KWV to tiny Rudera where Teddy Hall has taken Chenin
Blanc to new heights and other boutique wineries,
there is much to sip and sing about. Kruger: yes,
the park entry fee is a virtual guarantee to see the
Big Five - or almost any five Southern Africa species
many times over. But the Blue Train, while still classy
and classic and a worthy luxury travel experience,
has got splendid competition from a newcomer. In 1989
Rovos Rail came racing - well, chugging - down the
track. Rohan Vos, passionate and meticulous, collected
early 20th Century rail coaches and strung them together
with vintage steam locomotives.
Refurbished with lustrous wood panelling, Victorian-style
ceiling fans and sconces, gold/green/red brocades
and outfitted spaciously with full-size beds among
21st Century creature comforts, The Pride of Africa,
as Rohan tagged his creation, gives travelers a taste
of traditional Africa - served up with style and smiles.
When I stepped out of the taxi at Durban Station for
a two-day journey to Pretoria, the low-key staff -
always friendly but never campaigning to be my new
best friend - greeted me by name and with a glass
of Cap Classique. Americans don't have trains like
this one, a gleaming diamond amid the rough of workaday
yellow and gray huffing and puffing Metrorail trains.
(Other than our more-or-less efficient commuter systems
and a few high-speed Amtrak connections in the Northeast
United States, rail travel for us is a rather dismal
affair, avoided whenever possible.) The Rovos staff
kept hitting the right notes, keeping procedural and
safety briefings, well, brief and then we were off.
I never had to test the emergency drill but it was
nice to know help - even to sort out the many light
switches - was just a phone call away.
I had most looked forward to dining - dressing up
and sitting down for dinner in a real white-tablecloth
dining car. I was not disappointed. The food is vibrantly
South African - butterfish with orange and caraway
- sometimes with a twist - kingklip and salmon sosaties.
The wine list, though small, is wellchosen and I was
welcome to try anything on it. Always a Cap Classique
to start; Boschendal Chenin Blanc or maybe an unwooded
Chardonnay with butternut
squash-mango soup. Then L'Avenir Pinotage, a wine
I swoon over, especially with roast fillet, and tastes
of Meerlust Pinot Noir and other Stellenbosch reds.
The Rovos company, wisely, plans their trips with
topnotch off-train activities, a selling point for
Americans, who never have enough time. We enjoyed
game drives (5a.m. wake-up calls, Beethoven's Pastoral
Symphony subtly piped in during breakfast to set the
mood) in Swaziland's Mkhaya Park, with breeding programmes
for endangered species (we saw lots of black and white
rhino), and Kruger. After the evening drive in Kruger
- through Malelane Gate, across the Crocodile River,
stopping for two female hyenas to sniff around our
vehicle - we were treated to a boma dinner at the
Malelane Sun, with kudu kebabs, ostrich sausage and
other braai foods unfamiliar to Americans. That was
my only quibble - after sundowners, I would rather
have showered off the bush dust and put on fancy clothes
again for another dinner aboard.
The Rovos observation car, always open for drinks,
reading and card games, fostered networking, a favourite
pastime of Americans. The two dozen passengers on
my journey came from three continents. We swapped
life stories, business cards and just hung out watching
the oversize orange African moon recede in the breeze
on the outdoor deck. Day times, curled up with a book
in my room, I could lower the window so there was
nothing but fresh air between me and the waving children
and oldsters we passed by.
Stretching our legs on the Witbank platform, while
the crew swapped the electified engine for the coal-powered
steam locomotive that would pull us into Pretoria,
my new South African friends expressed shame and frustrastion
at the shabbiness of most Spoornet stations. True
enough. Even the pots that used to hold palms and
flowering shrubs sat chipped, faded, forlorn. A pity,
for mid-afternoon we arrived at Capital Park, the
spit-shined Rovos headquarters, recently restored.
Also a pity that there was time only for goodbys over
a quick drink - a flute of Cap Classique, of course,
which by now seemed seductively normal at any hour
of the day.
INCENTIVES FOR AFRICA
By Godfrey King, incentiveworld.com Magazine,
Vol 4 No 1
In 2004 Rovos Rail - which lays claim to running some
of the most luxurious trains in the world - will celebrate
its 15th anniversary. Since its establishment in 1989,
Rovos Rail has earned an enviable international reputation
for its truly worldclass travel experiences. Beautifully
rebuilt trains offer the opulence of a bygone era,
and now - with the addition of two 1954 pressurised
Convair aircraft - Rovos presents a novel combination
for group and incentive charters in Southern Africa.
Catering to a maximum of 42 passengers, there are
many permutations combining Rovos Rail's 42-bed train
with the Convair 440 aircraft as well as an historic
DC3. Groups can choose two nights on the train with
two or three nights in the Victoria Falls, Mfuwene
Luangwa Valley, the Okavanga Delta or elephant-back
safaris in Hoedspruit, Mpumalanga, South Africa.
Rovos says that from its headquarters in Capital Park,
Pretoria, very successful overnight trips from one
to 10 days have been undertaken in the past with business
incentive groups, historical tours, private family
gatherings and bird shoots. Three-to-four hour lunch
and dinner excursions, entertaining a maximum of 72
guests, is another possibility. Champagne, orange
juice and canapés are served on arrival while
musicians play light classical music in the background.
The train and the aircraft are available independently
for charter.
TAKING TO THE AIR
By Godfrey King, incentiveworld.com Magazine, Vol
4 No 1
In addition to rail journeys, Rovos has launched Rovos
Air. This consists of two 1954 Convair 440s which
are based at Lanseria Airport, midway between Johannesburg
and Pretoria. "Delaney", a 21-seat Douglas
DC3, has also been put into operation. These aircraft
are used to convey paying passengers from Pietersburg
to Victoria Falls in Zambia but are also available
to charter anywhere in Southern Africa.
A TRAIN TRIP BACK IN TIME
By Warwick Ashford, WebBrainstorm Magazine, February
2004
www.brainstorm.itweb.co.za
In the month of Valentines, it's time to shrug off
your regrets at having forgotten your new year's resolutions,
and instead resolve to immerse yourself a world of
luxury and romance.
If you were to imagine a five-star hotel offering
the highest standards of comfort and service with
the most spectacular views in Africa from each opulent
air-conditioned suite, you would have a good idea
of what to expect aboard Rovos Rail's luxury train,
The Pride of Africa.
Having crossed the Karoo several times by train, I
felt that no previous experience had come close to
the high Edwardian style of Rovos Rail. Every member
of the team, from creator Rohan Vos down to the engine
driver, has something to teach about service excellence.
Seated in comfortable chairs opposite the writing
desk and three windows of our suite as we meandered
through the Karoo towards Kimberley, my wife and I
sipped filter coffee and debated what made Rovos Rail
special. Although this was unlike any previous trans-Karoo
trip, it took us a while to identify what made it
unique. Like all train journeys, our sojourn aboard
The Pride of Africa freed us from the dangers and
rigours of the road, affording us the ability to relax,
enjoy the view, and even catch up on a little reading
or sleep without having to wait for the next pit stop
for refreshment or relief.
What makes the difference?
We reflected on the pleasure of afternoon tea in the
observation car, deliciously accompanied by the freshest
of carrot cakes, agreeing Rovos Rail has succeeded
in creating a fine hotel on wheels. But considering
that other trains have achieved the same, the question
remained as to what makes Rovos Rail different? Shortly
before Kimberley, as the vegetation grew slightly
taller and greener, we reached consensus.
The Pride of Africa is more than the sum of its parts.
It is a perfect fusion of the best of the past and
present, combining with kilometres of unspoiled African
bush to take the Rovos traveller to a new and exciting
place, which, in addition to comfort and luxury, is
all about nostalgia, elegance and style.
Rovos Rail offers trips along the Garden Route, an
Edwardian Safari from Cape Town to Dar es Salaam in
Tanzania, a 3 400km journey to Swakopmund in Namibia,
and a tri-annual nine-day golf safari. The Victoria
Falls trip includes a flight aboard Rovos Air, which
also offers two African regional air safaris using
a restored and updated fleet of aircraft comprising
two 1954 Convair 440 and a 1944 DC-3 classic aircraft.
Culinary delights
Travelling on the Pride of Africa is a journey beyond
reality where the best of contemporary African cuisine
may be savoured in the elegance of a classic 1924
dining car, where the ambience of its gently creaking
wooden pillars, arches, and panels, combined with
the coolness of unobtrusive air conditioners, more
than compensates for the quieter smoothness associated
with more modern suspension. Although a less romantic
setting for a candlelight dinner, the comparatively
newer 1938 dining car offers a gentler ride and has
a brighter, airy charm of its own with wide windows
offering better daytime views, while still retaining
some mystique of a past era.
Whether it's an informal lunch or dinner, where collar
and tie is a minimum requirement for gentlemen diners,
the food is outstanding. Although there is catering
for special dietary requirements requested on booking,
standard menus are thoughtfully balanced with a wide
variety of South African flavours. Springbok with
lemon honey sauce, bobotie, Karoo lamb, and the best
cinnamon milk tart we've ever tasted were some of
the delectable alternatives to prawns sautéed
in ginger and mint, beetroot and apple soup, Kingklip
in a Pernod sauce, and cappuccino cream dessert served
in a basket of chocolate coated biscuit.
The Victorian style, free standing enamel baths of
the Royal Suites are one of the outstanding features,
and the large showers in all the bathrooms are a pleasure
with their Victorian-style plumbing and steaming hot
water to revive weary travellers.
Our suite's wardrobe, albeit rather limited in size,
was like an Aladdin's cave of delights, packed with
dressing gowns, slippers, a shower mat and souvenir
toiletry case. There's even a pair of safety goggles
to enable the traveller to feel the rush of fresh
Karoo air in safety. "The Pride of Africa is
the only luxury train in the world with windows that
open!" boasts Vos.
A walk at the hole
The Rovos Rail experience is not confined to the train,
with stops at Matjiesfontein and Kimberley where local
guides take charge under the watchful eye of Rovos
staff.
The previous evening's weather forecast warned us
of an expected 36°C in Kimberley for the visit
to the city's famous Big Hole, and upon arrival Rovos
staff were on hand with chilled spring water to ease
the transition from air-conditioned comfort to dusty
mine museum. On return to Kimberley station, members
of the Rovos team were waiting with silver trays piled
high with refreshing cloths to mop sweaty brows and
others filled with welcome glasses of sparkling wine,
orange juice and bucks fizz.
Relieved to be back in the air-conditioned comfort
of our suite - named after Sir Joseph Robinson, one-time
mayor of Kimberley and supporter of President Paul
Kruger in opposition to Cecil John Rhodes - I was
able to settle into a comfortable chair and record
some of my thoughts before delving into the cleverly
concealed bar fridge below the writing desk, mixing
a lovely G&T near Warrenton and watching the gathering
dusk from the cosy comfort of our double bed.
A lack of water and coal replenishment facilities
often means having to use diesel or electric locomotives,
but Rovos Rail says it endeavours to ensure arrivals
and departures in Pretoria are under steam. And so
it was that in Centurion two of Rovos Rail's five
steam locomotives coupled up to make the steam train
era fantasy complete. With the steam whistle sounding,
we eased to our journey's end.
Of course, back in the real world, travelling in grand
style does come at a price. But, once paid, the rate
includes three meals a day, all beverages, off-train
excursions, 24-hour room service, as well as a laundry
and pressing service to take care of any unexpected
mishaps.
The newly rebuilt Capital Park colonial style station
prolongs the illusion of passage back in time, and
as one passes beneath the ceiling fans of the period
waiting room, out of the dream and back out into reality,
one cannot help dreaming of a future journey into
the past.
Rovos Rail Pretoria: +27 (0) 12-315-8242 Cape Town:
+27 (0) 21-421-4020
Rovos Air Lanseria: +27 (0) 11-701-3366
E-mail: reservations@rovos.co.za
BENTLEY CONTINENTAL GT
By DEON SCHOEMAN OF TOPCAR MAGAZINE MARCH 2004
Photography: ROB TILL www.topcar.co.za
Speed thrills! At 300 km/h, time goes into freeze
frame. You're concentrating so hard that every second
feels like a minute, every minute like a lifetime.
The landscape rushes by in a staccato blur, accompanied
by the angry hiss of slipstreaming air and the engine's
baritone bellow. Ahead, the horizon is rushing forward
to meet you. And still, the there's more to come
...
It may have been codenamed MSB (for Medium-Sized
Bentley), but there's nothing medium about the Continental
GT. Yes, it is more compact than the massively ostentatious,
indecently quick Arnage. Less expensive, too. But
it's still every inch the bellicose British aristocrat.
More importantly, the Continental GT is a thoroughly
modern Bentley: a car that acknowledges the glories
and traditions of the marque's past without becoming
entrapped by them. It epitomises the bolder, brighter
Bentley of the new millennium.
On first encounter, it's the aggression of the Continental
GT that takes you by surprise. The haughty, crusty
disdain of older-generation Bentleys has made way
for an altogether leaner, more challenging persona.
You see it in the clear-lensed stare of those round,
recessed headlights, sense it in the way that large
radiator grille symbolises an appetite for visceral,
hands-on motoring. Its chiselled figure is sinewy
and muscular, the metal stretched tautly over its
crouching, low-slung shape.
In profile, the nose is snub and pugnacious. But
from there, the bonnet's swoop to the A-pillar is
majestic and pure Bentley. Massive wheel arches
barely contain the equally massive alloy wheels.
The haunches are athletic, exuding power and authority.
The roofline brings a smooth arc of relief from
the rippling tension of the Continental GT's sculpted
waistline. Its curve not only confirms that this
Bentley is indeed a true coupé, but also
adds streamlined sex appeal.
Brightwork is mercifully restrained to the filigree
grille (which, horror of all horrors, is plastic!),
the window surrounds, a sill finisher and the oval
outline of the exhaust tailpipes.
The weight of the door drives home the sheer solidity
of the Continental GT. It opens wide to reveal the
hedonistic delights of the crafted cabin. Here,
the obligatory hand-stitched hide and high-gloss
wood veneer meet batteries of modern switchgear
and advanced electronics.
Superbly shaped, electrically controlled front bucket
seats provide support and comfort in abundance .
Big, round dials set into an acre of wood veneer
are clearly visible through the leather-trimmed
steering wheel.
The four-spoker is also home to a battery of ancillary
controls, including a scroll button for accessing
menus on the centrally located display. Round metallic
vents add to a sense of yesteryear déja vu,
as do the pull-push vent stops, and the twee analogue
clock, supplied by Breitling.
It all operates pretty logically once you get the
hang of it, but the dichotomy between traditional
and high-tech seems a little contrived. Still, finishes
are first class, and there's that rare air of bespoke
perfection that British craftsman do best.
Rear occupants get their own, sculpted seating,
split by a high centre console. Accommodation is
snug rather than spacious, with headroom in particular
compromised by the sloping roofline. Still, average-proportioned
folk won't have too much to complain about.
The real magic of the Bentley Continental GT commences
when you hit the start button. Yes, thanks to keyless
entry technology, you don't need to use the conventional
key. The whirr of the starter is followed in short
succession by the Bentley engine's bellow.
And what a bellow it is: this power unit sounds
unlike anything I've ever heard. It's a mix between
a V8's characteristic burble and the rather smoother
growl of a straight-six - and that's only at idle.
Blip the throttle, and the entire car rocks, while
that growl crescendos menacingly.
The sound effects confirm the rather special nature
of the engine: a W12 power unit that's both more
compact and lighter than a normal V12.
Derived from parent company Volkswagen's original
W12, this 5 998 cc unit effectively combines two
V6 engines by sharing a common crankshaft and staggering
the inner six cylinders. The angle between the two
main banks is 72 degrees, but between the staggered
cylinders the angle is just 15 degrees.
Twin overhead camshafts per bank, four valves per
cylinder and twin 3K turbochargers with air-to-air
intercoolers allow quite prodigious power and torque
outputs. Bentley claims a power maximum of 411 kW
at 6 100 r/min, while the torque peak of 650 Nm
is already reached at only 1 600 r/min!
To make the most of all that urge, this is the first
ever Bentley with all-wheel drive. In normal driving
conditions, it splits power 50:50 between the front
and rear axles, while a Torsen centre diff can seamlessly
vary that ratio according to traction requirement.
By now, I'm champing at the bit: ensconced in leather,
surrounded by the trappings of luxury motoring,
I'm about to experience the Continental GT for myself.
And I've got the entire day to subject the car to
the widest variety of driving conditions Johannesburg
and its environs can offer.
The Tiptronic-style gearshift lever snicks easily
into the 'D' gate. Gently feed in the loud pedal
- and we're off.
Trundling along at urban speeds is no problem: the
engine is smoothly tractable, with not a hint of
lag. But the slightest depression of the accelerator
elicits an instant surge of power. It's a reminder
of the potential lurking under that long, swooping
bonnet.
On the move, the Continental GT feels more compact
and firmer than its exterior dimensions suggest.
There's a reassuring tautness to the ride, and the
steering feels nicely weighted. Ride refinement
is exceptional, given the car's huge 19-inch alloys
and low-profile 275/40 ZR19 Pirelli P-Zero Rosso
rubber.
The coupé's front wishbone and rear multi-link
suspension are assisted by electronically controlled
air dampers, which allow it to adapt to varying
road surfaces and driving conditions.
Finally, we leave the city behind, and with nary
a vehicle in sight, it's time to open up this British
beast. Floor the throttle, and the Bentley leaps
forward with an enthusiasm that's quite startling,
given the car's 2,4-ton weight.
It accelerates relentlessly, with virtually no pause
between the ultra-smooth, ultra-quick gear changes
of the six-speed ZF auto gearbox. Ahead, the road's
tar ribbon is drawn thinner and thinner, while the
speedometer's red needle sweeps across the circular
face.
Bentley claims that the Continental GT is the world's
fastest four-seater production car, with a quoted
0-100 km/h sprint time of 4,8 sec, and a top speed
of 318 km/h.
The question is whether it will run that kind of
speed at the Reef's 1 600 m-plus altitude, using
93 octane pump fuel. The example I'm in has been
thrashed by media and customers around the globe,
but I've been assured that it's in a good state
of tune. Only one way to find out ...
Less than a minute later, my right foot floored,
I'm going faster than I've ever been before. The
Bentley is barrelling along unflustered, it's speedometer
reading a steady 310 km/h. No, make that 312 km/h.
And yes, there's still more available, but the conditions
mitigate against trying to push to the true 200
miles per hour mark.
The scariest part is how easy it is to go this fast.
There's no sign of instability, no nervous twitch
from the chassis, no aerodynamic anomaly. The Bentley
runs as straight, as true - and as fast - as an
arrow.
The experience is exhilarating - but also understated.
The Continental GT feels so solid, so irrevocably
planted on the road that even this extreme velocity
is less intimidating than expected.
Handling is stupendous. The air suspension automatically
adjusts to its tautest, lowest setting at high speed,
and the Bentley hugs the road with composed tenacity.
Damping remains good on unfriendly surfaces, but
there's unequivocal, confidence-inspiring communication
between car and driver. It's when you hit the brakes
that you're reminded how quick the Continental GT
is, however. Bringing well over two tons to a halt
from such speeds requires lots of friction - which
is exactly what the Bentley's all-disc ABS system
is designed to do.
The world's largest disc brakes (in passenger car
terms) are fitted to the front: huge 405 mm wide,
35 mm thick vented discs with four-pot callipers
provide the brake bite needed to haul the Bentley
down from the tremendous speeds it is capa
